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Most guests spend their day under one of the palm thatched huts on the beach. Complimentary buckets and shovels are yours for the taking if you want to create that perfect pink sand castle. Or grab one of the boogie boards and sea kayaks and hit the turquoise waters. Be sure to bring a mask and snorkel because the clear waters and reefs are teeming with green coral, lavender sea fans, parrotfish, and the occasional sting ray. If kids prefer fresh water to salt water, there's a heated pool just off the beach that's surrounded by the manicured lawn and a ring of swaying palms.
Scuba divers will relish The Arch, a grotto where schools of grunts and barracudas hide behind a coral archway that slopes downward from 65 to 110 feet. The hotel will also arrange a charter for anglers who want to try their luck hooking the elusive bonefish. Harbour Island is one of the finest places in the world for this sport. Firm white sand flats and shallow water rings the island. On a clear day, when the visibility is excellent, you can easily spot the shimmering scales of the quick darting bone. The challenge is getting one of these suckers to take your bait.
Back on terra firma, horseback riding is available on the beach or you can play tennis on one of the courts that are lit at night. By all means, do whatever it takes to tear yourself away from Coral Sands and see the rest of Harbour Island. This three-mile-long, half-mile-wide island looks as if someone shrank Nantucket and plopped it down in the tropics. The lone hamlet of Dunmore Town is a cluster of narrow, twisting streets lined with 18th-century clapboard houses, many built by British loyalists who fled to the island after the Revolutionary War. Today, golf carts and bicycles have replaced carriages as the preferred means of transport, chugging down streets that overflow with blossoms. A stroll down a shady lane and you'll find women in flowered hats happy to say hello and roosters crowing in backyards.
Indeed, the island's greatness is the sum of all the amenities it lacks. No nightclubs or casinos. No buildings higher than the tree line. Almost nothing to buy. It's as if someone very powerful, several decades ago, saw the exponential commercial growth in Nassau and Freeport and decided that Harbour Island would remain status quo - that the sun and surf were sufficient.
At night, return to the hotel and head to the library, more a game room than stacks filled with dusty books. Play a game of pool, one of the many board games, or watch a flick with the family on the big television.
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