Let the children walk through the gardens as soon as you arrive. You'll no doubt spot frogs, one of the 17 varieties of butterflies, and hummingbirds. The water supply for this tropical oasis is not only rain, but natural springs that feed the many hot spring pools at Papillote. These are well-used after days of hiking, especially if you take a guided trek to the island's famous Boiling Lake.
Dominica's volcanoes might be dormant, yet there's still fire in the belly of this island. The Boiling Lake is one of the highlights of a 7-hour round-trip hike inside Morne Trois Pitons National Park, on the south-central part of the island. Walk over muddy trails through a dense forest of tall gommier trees, used to make dugout canoes, and past the massive trunks and aerial roots of the banyan-like chatagnier trees, some more than 300 years old. Soon, you'll make your ascent out of the darkness of the rainforest canopy, accompanied by purple-throated hummingbirds who stick their heads into red heliconia flowers. Climb up and down a series of hills to finally arrive at the rim of the crater known as Boiling Lake. The second largest lake of its kind in the world, steam emanates from this cauldron of bubbling water where temperatures top out at 198 degrees Fahrenheit. Make sure the kids don't get too close to the edge!
A much easier stroll for younger children is a 15-minute walk from Papillote to Trafalgar Falls, one of 14 major waterfalls in the country. The Breakfast River careens down the hillside to actually form two waterfalls in one, with the higher Papa and lower Mama plunging over boulders, like blonde ponytails dangling from one big mountainous head.
One of the most relaxing ways to see the rainforest is on your behind, sitting inside a tube as you flow down the island's longest river. The Layou River gently slices through a gorge, soon opening up the dense jungle-like interior as you flow down. The hour-long jaunt ends far too quickly. Another good way to get deep into the rainforest without too much work is to take an hour-long ride on the aerial tram. Glide above the rainforest canopy as a naturalist points out many of the fascinating trees and ferns that make this a green oasis. Many tour companies combine the tram with a dip in the mysterious Ti Tou Gorge. Inside this dark narrow chasm that filters out sunlight, you feel like Jonah swimming through the ribs of the great whale. Kids will enjoy hearing their screams bounce off the cavernous walls.
Soufriere, on the southern tip of Dominica, is home to many sea kayaking and snorkeling adventures. Paddle along the rugged coastline, escorted by dozens of thin needle-nose fish that fly in and out of the waves. An hour later, exchange kayaks for snorkels and hover above little tiny bubbles the locals call the Champagne Pools. Geothermal vents in the ocean floor allow the hot air to rise. Sponges are hidden within the nooks of the reef. And schools of black-striped sergeant majors can be seen floating above the brain and elkhorn coral.
Back at the hotel, don't expect a full range of kids' programs that tend to be the norm at other Caribbean destinations. Like many eco-resorts, Papillote prides itself on letting families design their day's activities. Dominica is that rare island where parents want to be on adventures with their kids, not away from them.
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